User Name Remember Me? Password Forgot Password? Join Us! Engine Light On? Visit AutoCodes. My ECM fuse blows when trying to start the car. My altima died while driving it. I had it towed back to my house and noticed the check engine light would not come on and the car would not start.
I have tracked down a fuse that was blown in the fuse box under the hood by the water jug. It was fuse number If I replace the fuse, it will blow out again if I attempt to start the vehicle. What do I need to do from here to fix the problem? Edit: It actually blows if I even turn the key to the on position. Last edited by Soonerborn; at PM. As you can see from the attached image, the fuse 51 power many items.
You have to start by disconnecting one by one until you find the one that doesn't blows the fuse. You could start by disconnecting the ECM and then turn the key to the on position to check if that stops blowing the fuse. Find local automotive repair shops in your area. Check your spark plug coil packs for blisteringjust unplug them and see if the fuse still blows if it doesn't then you found your problem. Thanks guys for the replies. I disconnected all 4 coils and it still blew the fuse when I turned the key to the on position.
I then disconnected the ecm and it didn't blow the fuse when the key was turned to the on position. It didn't show the check engine light either with it disconnected which I guess is expected. Does this mean the ECM will have to be replaced or could it still be something else causing the problem?
You probably have to replaced the ECM. You could either buy a new one from the dealer or sent your to get repair. Let me ask this, about a week before this incident I got a code after the car died and restarted right up. I replaced the CMP sensor with an Importdirect sensor. A week later is when I started having the problem with the fuse blowing. Could they be related? So I guess it could be the sensor but I am confused, any help?
Last edited by Soonerborn; at AM. One last update and question. I took out the cam sensor and it was indeed fried. I replaced it with the old crank sensor that I replaced at the same time as the cam sensor and the car started right up.
Now the replacement sensors I got at Oriellys where from a company called importdirect. Is it a rare deal where one would go out so soon after installing it and should I replace the crank sensor again with a better sensor?Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
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Contact Us. My Cookies. Frequently Asked Questions. Forum Rules. We coasted hah! It cranks fine, but will not start. I popped in a new 10AMP fuse had a spare in the truck and it blew as soon as I cranked it. Sounds like a short I had it towed home. Where do I start? Any help or advice would be welcome. Cliff Suburban 2WD 5. By-pass the ECM or plug in a new module. Check the ground straps and connections at the distributor. He can't bypass the ECM. You might have better luck posting in the next forum, they have a lot more fuel injection experience.
Your 91 components are the same as on 92's anyway. Thanks, Cliff Suburban 5. You can try using a slightly larger fuse in there, but if it blows immediately the relay might be fused together, or the fuel pump in the tank might be bad. Not absolutely certain it controls the fuel pump, so you might want to check the wring diagrams before tearing into it.
I replaced it last year, so maybe I pinched a wire. I also suspect the oil press sensor since my gage has acted funny for a while, like maybe it was shorting out. Maybe this will be easy! Thanks again. Cliff Suburban 5. The wiring and the sensor are buried at the back of the engine below the dist and right up against the fire wall.Recently changed out the fuel pump and alternator to this car once done noticed that there was a 15 amp fuse blown, replaced it, it controls the PCM, ECM, TCM, and fuel pump.
A girlfriend was driving it.
Q: ECM fuse keeps blowing
Went to go get the car, installed a slightly larger fuse in place of the 15 started the car made it about a mile had to pull back over and then when I restarted it and back out the fuse blows again. Had it towed replaced the fuse started. I want to make it safe for my girlfriend.
Anybody can let me know? Do you. Hello, The reason your vehicle keeps blowing this fuse is that you have a short to ground somewhere in the circuit that this fuse protects.
Also, you should never replace a blown fuse with one that has a higher amp rating. The original fuse was put in place to protect whatever the load is for that circuit. If you replace a 15A fuse with a 30A fuse you could be allowing excess current to reach the device the 15A fuse was protecting, frying it. A short to ground works like this. The neat thing about automobile electrical circuits is that according to Ohm's law is one of the three electrical properties remains constant, than when one of the others rises the other must fall.
What am I talking about. The constant in this equation is voltage, or the force of the electricity. Your car battery supplies a nice constant So if you have a bare wire that is grounding out on the car frame, and not allowing all available voltage to be dropped across the circuit's load, resistance, or anything that opposes the electrical flow, goes down, meaning that current amps must go up. The current, or flow, of the electricity will continue to rise until it surpasses the rating of the fuse on the circuit and, pop, blows the fuse.
So, in the diagrams below I have given you the diagrams for the under hood fuse box and the Power Distribution Wiring Diagrams for your vehicle. Follow the circuit from the blown fuse and find the wire that is shorting to ground from the information below. Please get back to us with what you find out. Was this answer. Please login or register to post a reply.
It Looks Rusted. Sponsored links. Ask a Car Question. It's Free!Check engine light has been on for a while. Pulled up to my friends house one morning and the car didn't started when I tried to leave. I replaced the ECM fuse and started the car. It lasted for about 45 seconds and just died. It hasn't started at al since then. Hi there. If the ECM fuse keeps blowing, then there is a definite electrical short. Most of the time the short is in the ECM, but it may have a short in the wiring going to it.
I usually isolate it by going through the wiring schematic and disconnecting areas of the circuit until I find the short. If you need to have this electrical short fixedconsider YourMechanic, as a certified mechanic can come to your home or office to diagnose and repair this. My car has miles. My car has a manual transmission.
Robert Tomashek Automotive Mechanic. Thank Robert. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details.
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There are some common issues that can cause this to occur. Most of the time it is because the transfer case has an internal failure. The first thing that I would do is drain the fluid and inspect its Read more. The transmission control module has various sensors such as vehicle Problem with shifting positions It may very well be that your vehicle has a problem that is causing reduced power output.Ecm 1 fuse keeps blowing as soon as ignition switch is turned to on and p code Do you.
The fuse blowing indicates a shorting somewhere which usually is the ignition coil try removing the could wiring and replace the fuse to see if it still blows. P is a fault with the CKP crank sensor. Check its wiring and ensure it is not affected by the exhaust manifold or anything else that could have damaged it. Was this answer. Sorry I meant that my car is a 99 gmc jimmy and the only code is p It has to be a short circuit that comes and goes for sure and blows ecm 1 fuse as soon as the igniton key is powered up yesterday 2 things happenned while me and my father in law tried fixing it.
One time I installed a crank sensor and ignition control module I got from a local auto dismantler and the truck fired right up of course at this time for whatever reason the ecm 1 fuse was not being burned up it was fine and ran great for about 30 sec all of a sudden very loud noise resembling an electrical short fuse was heard and truck dies and not starting again with a code that said the ignition module was bad, changed the module to the original one and then had no codes on the pcm but the ecm 1 fuse was being burned up again, after wiggling the wiring harness around we somehow got the fuse to stop blowing and started getting the crank sensor code listed above.
A list of the components that could cause the fuse to keep blowing would be very helpful as it seems I cant find that info anywhere online or my repair manual also if you guys know any known common areas these vehicles develop short circuits that info would be great too we just had a baby 6 weeks ago and going to a mechanic shop right now is not financially possible please help!
It should be a power feed from the ECM 1 fuse and the diagram shows what are linked to it. Tape it up first and after starting engine, check for trouble codes.
Image Click to enlarge. Really appreciatte the help but I actually gave wrong information the fuse that keeps blowing is the eng 1 fuse NOT the ecm1 fuse weird thing is that on the socket where that fuse goes im gettig 12 volts when both terminals are tested on a voltmeter but my fuse doesnt blow and just hours ago it was burning through fuses like crazy but now they are not blowing but still getting 12 volts from the fuse terminal witout using an outside ground just both terminals of the fuse socket what does this mean Was this answer.
Why Does My ECM-I Fuse Keep Blowing?
I installed a test light on the eng1 fuse slot and it lit up I disconnected all of the sensors on this circuit and when I disconnected the last one which is the MAF sensor the light went off I then started plugging all of the other seonsors back in and the light never came back on until I plugged the maf sensor back in and when I disconnected it the light went of again I tested the electrical connector that feeds power to the maf and both tests my repair manual says to do indicate that the connector is good and receiving proper power and proper signal from the pcm.
Does this mean the maf sensor is causing the short circuit killing my fuse? I wish I did what you said int he first post I final got a new coil and installed it, everything is working great I love this site. Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help. Cheers Was this answer. Please login or register to post a reply.
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing ECM-Power Relay
We Have Replaced Coil Sponsored links. Ask a Car Question. It's Free!The ECM, or electronic control moduleis the computer responsible for controlling all of the engine management functions. It is the central control unit of most vehicles and controls a variety of functions, such as electrical system power distribution, emissions, ignition, and fuel systems.
It is a very important, if not the most important component of a modern engine management system, and just the same as any other important electrical component it is powered through a relay. If the relay fails, or has any issuesit can cause the vehicle to have all sorts of problems, and may even render it undriveable.
Usually a problem with the ECM power relay will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a problem that should be serviced.
One of the first symptoms of a problem with the ECM power relay is no power when the key is inserted. If the ECM power relay fails it can cut off power to the entire vehicle. A failed relay will disable the dash lights and warning chimes that normally come on when the key is inserted into the ignition, and will probably be unable to start or turn over the vehicle. Another common symptom of a problem with the ECM power relay is an engine that will not start or turn over.
The fuel and ignition systems, as well as several other engine management functions, of many vehicles are controlled by the ECM. A bad relay may cause the vehicle to crank, but not startor sometimes not even crank at all.
A failed ECM power relay can also cause a battery drain or dead battery. If the relay shorts it can leave power on to the computer, even when the vehicle is turned off.
This will place a parasitic drain on the battery, which will eventually cause it to go dead. Without it the entire engine management system will be disabled and the vehicle will not run. For this reason, if you suspect that your ECM power relay may be having an issue, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic, to determine if the relay should be replaced. The most popular service booked by readers of this article is Vehicle Engine Electrical Inspection.
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Average rating fromcustomers who received a Vehicle Engine Electrical Inspection. No power when the key is inserted One of the first symptoms of a problem with the ECM power relay is no power when the key is inserted. Engine will not start Another common symptom of a problem with the ECM power relay is an engine that will not start or turn over.
Battery drain or dead battery A failed ECM power relay can also cause a battery drain or dead battery. Home Articles. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details.
Related Articles. Related Questions. Any tips on how to get the shaft out of transmission. Hello, thank you for writing in. There are a few things you can try. The most commonly utilized options includes larger and longer tools for more leverage. If you are attempting to save the axle you are removing, you will Crank but no start and there is no fuel pressure. Hi there.The electronic control module ECM -- also called the powertrain control module PCM or electronic control unit ECU -- is a computer which controls the electronics in an automobile.
The ECM 1 is one such computer; it has a fuse is installed to protect the computer from sudden power surges or other component damage -- the fuse will blow before any damage can reach the ECM.
Many component defects can cause your ECM 1 fuse to blow. Although complaints have been reported about the O2 sensor causing the ECM 1 fuse to blow, in reality it is not the O2 sensor causing the problem -- it is the placement of the O2 sensor. If the wires leading to the O2 sensor rub against the exhaust, it creates a ground; once the O2 sensor is grounded, the fuse to the ECM 1 blows. The O2 sensor must be installed in a different place to ensure the wires do not short-circuit.
Another cause of an ECM 1 fuse consistently blowing is a fuel pump problem. When the fuel pump begins to fail it overheats, causing it to drain more amperage amp ; if the amps exceed the amount of amps the ECM 1 fuse allows, the fuse will blow.
Replacing the fuel pump should correct this problem. The ECM 1 operates via voltage sent from the battery. Anytime an electrical wire becomes frayed, burnt or damaged, the wiring leading to the ECM 1 will short-circuit; once a wire short-circuits, a power surge can occur; if the power surge exceeds the ECM 1 fuse's limitations it will blow the fuse.
It is hard to track down a short circuit, but you will have to look at every wire leading to the ECM. It is best to have a qualified technician -- with the tools and devices to narrow down the specific wire causing the short -- work on such fuse problems.
The starter is the component that engages the engine when the ignition system is turned on. Voltage from the battery is sent to the starter, which then engages and starts the engine.
If the starter is failing or has failed, voltage can get redirected to the ECM. The voltage or amps surge, causing the ECM 1's fuse to blow.
When the starter fails you will hear a clicking noise or the engine will be hard to start. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Wiring The ECM 1 operates via voltage sent from the battery. Starter The starter is the component that engages the engine when the ignition system is turned on. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.